Tuesday, April 16, 2024

Loftus Bralette

It's been a while since I last posted on here.  The problem is that most of what I make these days are samples for patterns that haven't been released yet.  I keep saying I will write the post and then just post it when the pattern is released but .... well we all know where good intentions get us....

But this pattern is different - I am super excited about this pattern, probably because I actually had a hand in designing it.  During the design process we found ourselves really struggling.  Something about the design lines we were using just were not working.  So one day I decided to just try my hand at designing a bralette from scratch. I put on my best fitting Willowdale bra, made the back of the bralette as we had currently designed, and then just attached large squares of fabrics across the front.  Then I just started pinning out seams.  Attaching elastic where I thought it was most desirable, and eventually came up with something that I liked.  I took it apart and photocopied all the pieces and sent it through to our bra pattern drafter, and this was the bra that I made from that original pattern.


I loved it, so I showed it to Jenny and she liked it too, so we decided to go with it and use this as the design for the Cashmerette bralette - which I then named the Loftus....

Since then I've made more of these bralettes than I can count.  Between the original samples, the test samples, the photoshoot samples and then the ones I've made just for myself I think I must be close to 20 by this time.

Most of them were for other people but today I wanted to show you the ones that have ended up in my wardrobe.

Loftus #1 -  is the bra shown above.  That one was made over 6 months ago and I've been wearing it regularly during since then.  Unfortunately I had to consign it to the scrap pile recently as I only ever basted it together and it's starting to come apart.  This bra was made in a 34H from cream coloured stabilised bra cup lining and a teal green lace. I think that what I love most about this version is the fact that the center panel is made from the sheer cup lining in a cream colour and whilst it doesn't match my skin tone, it does come close so it makes that center section disappear - This is still my favourite of all the Loftus Bralettes I've made - I may have to remake it properly so it can be worn again.

Loftus #2  - was my second attempt at this bra, back in the early days of development.  I wasted to test out the use of some different fabrics.  I always like trying patterns in different fabrics so that I know what to recommend on the pattern.  This bra I made with the same cream coloured sheer cup lining and center insert, but I covered the bra cups with a peacock patterned chiffon. 



I loved the way it looked when I first made it - but then I washed it a few times... It ended up fraying along all seam lines.  I do still wear the bra, but basically at this point it's just cup lining with a few stray threads over the top.  Suffice it to say chiffon did not make the list of fabrics that you can use to make this bra.

Loftus #3 - This is my least favourite version, made about mid way through development to test a few things.  First the use of fold over elastic along the neckline and underarm.. This did not work - for starters it's itchy, and second it's not supportive enough. I had to take darts out of my straps to get them to stay up. second the use of 1.5" wide elastic at the bottom instead of 2" as I know 2" is hard to find so I tested the 1.5"...but I just don't love it - it doesn't have the same impact at the 2" elastic.  Third I wanted to use a stretch fabric.  I knew from earlier experiments that using a stretch fabric over the stable bra cup lining just caused the stretch fabric to pouch out, so I tried underling the stretch fabric with the bra cup lining.  This did work, but it also meant I couldn't encase the powerbar between the two layers so I ended up leaving the powerbar out - which I don't think gives the best shape.  So yeah this one was not a huge success.  Except that it taught me what not to do.


                  
Loftus #4  This was actually a sample that I made for one of the models.  It's made from black bra cup lining covered in a black lace with red roses and is made in a size 38H. This is technically three cup sizes too big for me (34H), but I just couldn't bring myself to throw it out.  So I sewed a couple of darts through the center insert and inner cups and it's really not a bad fit considering.


What i learned from this bra is that if you are unsure what size to make assume bigger, it's pretty easy to pin it down to size.

Loftus #5  This was a much later addition to my wardrobe made after the pattern was fully finalised.   This one was made as a size test for me - I find that one of my boobs is bigger than the other and at the end of the day, that boob is often spilling over the top of the cup.   I've always wondered whether I should be making one cup size bigger on that side, but I can never be bothered trying to make separate cups sizes so I just tried making the whole bra one cup size bigger - a 34I.  I made this bra with black bra cup lining, and a royal blue velvet that is burnt out in a flower pattern to reveal a turquoise mesh underneath. 

While the fit isn't bad, it is too big overall - I obviously need a half a cup size bigger on that side not a full cup size, but I can't be bothered so will probably just make do with the 34H.  In order to make this one fit a little better I ended up taking a dart in the neckline. This is actually quite comfortable now.



Loftus #6  Going back to the original size 34H I wanted to try using a lace on the center insert.  For this one I used the black bra cup lining, a poly satin with flowers on a teal background for the main cups, and a teal lace overlaid on the center insert.



I quite like the lace look, and in person I really love how this bra looks, but these photos are showing every little wrinkle in the satin fabric so they are not doing this bra justice.

Finally Loftus #7 - This one has the black bra cup lining, then two layers of sheer blue bra cup lining as the main and a black sparkly lace on the center insert.  I also sewed this version with exposed elastic for a more sporty look and did contrasting topstitching.  

I used the full height neckline on this for the first time.  Up until now all the bras I've made for myself had the lower neckline height, but I thought I should give the higher one a go.  If I were to make it again I would add 1/4" width to the top of the center front insert as I feel like it's pulling the straps in a little as it is.  But it does make a very supportive bra.  I can do jumping jacks in this which is unheard of for a non sports bra.


So as I think you can guess from this post I really love this pattern.  I've been wearing basically nothing but Loftus Bralettes for the last couple of months and I can't see that changing any time soon.